/'But for Now', Jamie Cullum [ao P., por me adivinhares tão bem nas entrelinhas e pela deliciosa companhia]
«36hours
36 Hours in Porto, Portugal
By SETH SHERWOOD
Published: November 23, 2011
FOR years, Porto’s motto was, in essence, “You’ve tried the wine; now try the city!” But these days Portugal’s second-largest metropolis — an attractively faded hillside city of venerable town houses and Baroque churches — no longer needs to coast on the reputation of its famous digestif. A jam-packed new night-life district is taking shape, and a blossoming creative scene features everything from an upstart design center to the avant-garde Rem Koolhaas-designed Casa de Música, a stunning concert space. And there’s great news for oenophiles as well. With the Douro region’s emergence as a hotbed of prize-winning red wines — not just port — Porto (also known as Oporto) can now intoxicate you with myriad vintages, new ambitious restaurants and even wine-themed hotels.
Friday
6 p.m.
1. GO WEST
A cheap tour (2.50 euros, or $3.35 at $1.34 to the euro) of Porto (also known as Oporto) awaits on tram line No. 1, which starts near Praça do Infante square and heads west to the Atlantic coast. Outfitted with old leather seats and wood paneling, the hourly (or half-hour
ly, depending on the season) tram cars clatter on their rails alongside the Douro River, past city squares, churches and port wine houses. The 20-minute journey drops you in the seaside district of Foz do Douro, where you can easily stop at Shis (Praia do Ourigo, Esplanada do Castelo; 351-22-618-9593; shisrestaurante.com), a stylish beachfront restaurant-bar. The terrace is great for sunset views and Super Bock beer (2.50 euros).9 p.m.
2. NOT FOR DIETERS
The Francesinha is a cardiologist-unapproved local sandwich of ham, beef, sausage and cheese with a warm tomato-beer sauce. At Restaurante DOP (Palácio das Artes, Largo Santo Domingos 18; 351-22-201-4313; ruipaula.com), a crisp minimalist space opened last year by the celebrity chef Rui Paula, the working man’s snack is elevated to an epicure’s ambrosia, with ingredients like tenderloin beef, artisanal sausage, mozzarella and a bit of lobster in the meat gravy. Also first-rate are moist John Dory filets with a delicate triple-cheese sauce. The 60-page wine list features vintages from the Douro region, including a medium-bodied silky and acidic 2005 Quinta de Roriz red (8 euros a glass). Dinner for two, without wine: around 80 euros.
11 p.m.
3. A MARKET REBORN
Nearby, the venerable Beaux-Arts-style covered market known as Mercado Ferreira Borges was reborn this year as Hard Club (Praça do Infante 95; 351-70-710-0021; hard-club.com). Four years in the making, the renovated glass-and-steel structure houses a bookstore, an art exhibition area, a restaurant, a patio, bars and concert halls. The hardest thing about Hard Club is simply deciding among all the events, from indie rock concerts to crafts fairs. For weekend club nights, crowds arrive after 2 a.m. and don’t leave before sunrise. The cover charge varies.
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The New York Times - Travel [http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/11/27/travel/36-hours-in-porto-portugal.html]
